November 20, 2023
In a research presentation funded by BUBT Research and Innovation Centre (BRIC), Dr. Mohammed Rubaiyat Chowdhury, Professor & Dean, Faculty of Apparel Studies at BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT), showcased a groundbreaking project aimed at transforming the landscape of Jamdani saree production in Bangladesh.
The event took place at the University meeting room-220, building-2 and welcomed esteemed figures in academia, including Prof. Dr. Md. Fayyaz Khan, Vice Chancellor of BUBT, Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT), Prof. Santi Narayan Ghosh, Director of tIQAC and The Research and Innovation Centre (BRIC), Zaved Mannan, Additional Director of IQAC and all the faculty members of the Textile Engineering Department of BUBT.
The presentation began with an insightful introduction by Dr. Engr. Mohammed Rubaiyat Chowdhury, highlighting the rich heritage of Bangladesh’s Textile Art Origin map and emphasizing the historical significance of Jamdani sarees. Notably, he underscored the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity status conferred upon the traditional art of weaving Jamdani in 2013 and Bangladesh’s receipt of Geographical Indication (GI) status for Jamdani Saree in 2016.
The research objectives outlined a visionary path towards sustainable Jamdani saree production, emphasizing the use of 100% cotton yarn, natural dye, avoidance of banned dyes, encouragement of traditional weaving methods, affordable pricing, and the overall pursuit of sustainable manufacturing.
Utilizing a meticulous research methodology involving raw materials such as 100% Cotton Pima, 100% cotton 80 Ne Yarn, and natural dyes, the project meticulously examined the transformation process, focusing on yarn dyeing, warp preparation, weaving, and rigorous quality testing.
During the discussion phase, Dr. Mohammed Rubaiyat Chowdhury shed light on the prevalent use of non-cotton materials and synthetic dyes in Jamdani saree production, underscoring the absence of sustainability practices despite exorbitant prices.
Moreover, the presentation highlighted the labor-intensive nature of the weaving process, taking anywhere from one to six months, or even longer for intricately designed Jamdani sarees, posing challenges for sustainability implementation.
Regarding the dyeing process, the research illuminated the shift from traditional vegetable dyes to manufactured dyes due to labor and time constraints, signaling the importance of adapting sustainable practices without compromising earnings.
In conclusion, while the project aimed to promote sustainability in Jamdani saree manufacturing, it revealed a dearth of sustainable raw materials in the market. Urgent support and further research are required to sustain this heritage while providing support to weavers and ensuring the use of sustainable products.
The event concluded with a ceremonial handover of the final product, the sustainable Jamdani saree, symbolizing a significant step towards embracing sustainability in Bangladesh’s textile heritage. The discussion highlighted challenges and opportunities in creating a niche market for these exquisite sarees, earmarked for special occasions.
Dr. Mohammed Rubaiyat Chowdhury and Professor Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan addressed concerns and emphasized the specialized nature of these sarees for specific customer groups, primarily for ceremonial usage.
Acknowledging the researchers’ efforts, Professor Santi Narayan Ghosh expressed gratitude for the exceptional presentation, while Vice Chancellor Dr. Md. Fayyaz Khan extended appreciation to all participants, underscoring the project’s potential to elevate research endeavors at Bangladesh University of Business and Technology.